tartufo

The old Romans liked them. Piedmont was famous for them in Renaissance times. Today Italy, not France, is the largest producer, and every variety of truffle is found here. Most come into the markets in the late fall and winter.

Tartufi bianchi: Tuber magnatum pico, the most prized, come from around Alba and Asti in Piedmont. They've become a silly international status item, with prices up to $100,000 a kilo. There are other small areas through Italy, around northern Umbria and the northern Marche as far as the Molise and Basilicata, that also produce them.

Similar, but not quite as fragrant as the tartufi bianchi are the borchi and bagnoli white truffles (also called 'bianchetti' or tartufo marzolo or marzaiuolo). These are found around Tuscany and Umbria, especially near San Miniato, also around Aqualagna, south of Urbino in the Marche, and around San Pietro Avellana, north of Isernia in the Molise. The borchi appear in the late winter.