Off Campo Santo Stefano, Palazzo Pisani is tucked into its own little campo. The tycoons of the Pisani family suffered from the most lingering case of ‘stone fever’ or mal della pietra in Venice. You could land a Concorde on their villa at Strà, and this town palace of theirs, begun in 1614, would have reached similar proportions – or at least the Grand Canal – if the government hadn’t ordered them to stop building during the mid-18th century.
The palace, now the Benedetto Marcello Conservatory of Music, has two interior courtyards, linked by a loggia – worth popping into to see the wall of pouting Pisani busts. The rest of the palace, its Museo della Musica and/or its roof terrace—the highest in Venice— can be visited on a 75-minute guided tour as part of a non-profit crowdfunding project to support the conservatory and fund scholarships for students.
The courtyard was used in Casino Royale (2006) as the meeting place between Vesper and Mr Gettler (although it looks like St Mark’s Square in the film).
Palazzo Pisani, Santo Stefano, Sestiere di San Marco 2810
Guided tours Book online: visits generally take place Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The tour of the Conservatory, Museo della Musica of the Conservatory and palace is €18. Combination tickets available with Basilica di San Marco: Campanile and Palazzo Grassi
vaporetto Accademia
Image by Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls