Kálamos and Kástos, northeast of Ithaca and east of Meganisi, are under the jurisdiction of Lefkada, but unless you have your own boat they can only be reached by way of the charming seaside town of Mítikas on the mainland.
Pines cover every feasible roothold on Kálamos, a mountain in the sea where most of the 580 residents live in attractive Kálamos Town with its narrow lanes and stone houses; there are a few rooms to rent and tavernas serving locals and visiting yachties.
Better beaches, such as Ag. Konstantínos with a little chapel, are beyond the landmark windmills, near the island’s other village, tiny Episkopí, linked by a road over the mountain.
Image by Guy Quayle