loukoúmi

Also known as Turkish delight, a firm, gelatinous cube made with water, sugar and starch various flavourings (rose, quince, pistachio, Bergamot orange, mastic among others), then coated in powdered sugar to keep them from sticking together. They are often offered to guests instead of spoon sweets, glykó tou koutalioú.

The word comes from the Arabic al-halkum, 'throat comfort'. They were ainvented in the 18th century, and perhaps came to Istanbul by way of Persia. One story says that a sultan broke his tooth on a hard candy, and demanded a softer sweet. There are records that once palace had the recipe, it tried (unsuccessfully) to keep other pastry chefs in Istanbul from making it.

Loukoúmi was brought to Sýros by refugees from Chíos sometime around 1824, during the Greek War of Independence. As a major port the island quickly famous for its loukoúmi, exporting it around the world, selling some 8 tonnes worth in its heyday.

Today they still make it (although much less) as anyone who has ever gone island hopping in the Cyclades knows: no matter how short the stop, there will be time for the salesmen to race on board with baskets full of boxes of loukoúmi and halvadopita. If you get off the boat, seek out the excellent version made by Yiannis Aggelikas.

Other variations are made in northern Greece: the soutzoúk loukoúm of Komotini and the akánes of Sérres.