This is where it all started, the site of Barcelona's Cathedral and its seats of government. For all that, it's a rather calm, low-key neighbourhood, more like the centre of Paris than the businesslike centre of London. Much of it is predominantly residential; tourists and locals get along nicely on narrow streets that can be 2,000 years old.
In any city founded by the Romans, you can look at a map and pick out the telltale shape of the Roman castrum, identical from Britain to the Euphrates: a rectangle bisected two ways by the main streets, the cardo and decumanus, with a forum near their intersection. In Roman Barcino, the rectangle became slightly rounded, in the loop between the curving C/ Banys Nous, C/ d’Avinyó and Vía Laietana.The gentle hill of Mons Tàber was Barcino’s 'capitol', and here the institutions of medieval Barcelona took root over the ruins of their Roman predecessors.
Image by Laura Padgett