Although Italians, as a whole, don't do leftovers, Tuscans are notoriously tight wads, and hate wasting anything. This recipe was invented as a use for the inexpensive beef leftover from making a stock, which is sliced paper thin and served with sautéed red onions, beef broth, olive oil, and tomatoes—which, according to one legend, resemble the red pompoms on the berets of French sailors, who were frequently seen in Livorno in the 19th century, and were even stingier than the Tuscans.
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