olive ascolane

Once you could only get them in the bars of the lovely city of Ascoli Piceno; now they're known all over Italy, and DOP rated.

They're horribly fussy to make. Start with big fleshy green olives known as tenera ascolana, take out the pit without damaging them, stuff them with a mix of meat (three different kinds!) plus prosciutto, parmigiano and a little tomato sauce, roll in flour, egg and breadcrumbs, and fry.

They are an essential part of a fritto misto all'ascolana, which includes lamb chops, artichokes and crema pasticcera fritta.