Donoússa

Donoússa (pop. 150), due east of Náxos, is the northernmost and most remote of the ‘Back Islands’ or Little Cyclades, with fewer ferry links. Larger and more mountainous than the others (the highest peak, Pápas, is nearly 400m), it has scant remains of a Geometric-era settlement (900–700 BC) at Vathý Limenári.

In Roman times Donoússa was an island of exile, and was left abandoned for centuries except for pirates. The first permanent settlers arrived from nearby Amorgós in the mid 19th century.

Today visitors come for the fine beaches, for the peace and quiet, and walks along the five well marked paths. A little bus goes back and forth on the paved road. Bring a good book.

Stávros (also known as Kámbos), the port and main village, has everything you need—bakery, a music bar, a few places to stay, an ATM machine, a half a dozen tavernas, and a good beach. In summer you can do a boat tour around the coast and to the Fokospiliá or Seal Cave on the east coast. The seal is long gone but the light reflections and transparent water make it a great place for snorkelling.

Around the island