Folégandros

Of all the islands of the Aegean Sea, Pholygandros can boast of the most majestic coastline. In fact, I doubt if it can be equalled anywhere. James Bent, The Cyclades (1885)

Arid and mountainous, long an island of exile – Socialist Prime Minister George Papandréou (grandfather of the more recent prime minster of the same name) was once an unwilling guest – Folégandros is now an increasingly trendy place to get away from it all by choice.

With sheer cliffs and a breathtaking capital, Chóra, built to defy pirates—CNN recently listed it as one the most beautiful villages in Europe—it is one of the most alluring of the Cyclades. It’s been well and truly discovered by celebrities, but remains low key.

With only 650 inhabitants (down from 4,000 in the 1940s) Folégandros (all of 12 sq miles/3107 hectares) is one of the smallest Greek islands with a permanent population. You don’t need a car—a scooter, quad bike and water taxi are is the preferred means of getting around.