anchois

Beautiful Collioure, on the coast of Roussillon, is the anchovy capital of France, and since 2004 its anchovies have been designated IGP— the only fish to earn that appellation in France.

Collioure marks the northern tip of the Catalan ‘Anchovy Coast’ that extends south to the Gulf of Roses on the Costa Brava. The diabolical Catalans have boats called lámparos, with big searchlights. They sneak out on warm summer nights, when the normally shy anchovies are making their promenade, and nab the lot.

After spending a few months in barrels of brine, these fat brown Catalan anchovies reappear, only to be stuffed into olives or jars as filets d'anchois en saumure (preserved in brine).

You can also find filets d'anchois à l'huile (preserved in olive oil)—all very different beasts from the dinky silvery salt bomb (aka anchois au sel) that can sneak on to your pizza.